Hindu Blessings at London’s Neasden Temple

I’ve been to UK Hindu temples before, those converted community-hall type of temples you find in most urban population centres, where the shrines are modest and the furnishings sometimes a little frayed around the edges. I’d occasionally wondered if all such temples outside of India were the same.

Sweets, Pastries and hot meals opposite BAPS Swaminarayan Mandir Neasden Hindu Temple

Sweets, pastries and hot meals are available opposite the temple grounds, for sustenance before or after your visit.

Last weekend I discovered that this is categorically not the case, as I accompanied my longest-standing friend and her family to Neasden Temple in north-west London. I knew nothing about it in advance and if I’m honest my expectations weren’t high, but it didn’t matter, because our purpose was to bestow marriage blessings on my friend’s son and his wife-to-be, prior to their wedding in August.

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As it turned out, the temple proved to be intricately beautiful, and an intriguing and sobering vessel for faith, tradition and reflection.

Prayers and Purchases

Access to the grounds is carefully controlled, with security guards diligently screening the crowds and guiding them through the main entrance of the haveli – the large hall connected to the main temple, or mandir.

Here visitors de-shoe themselves and perhaps sit on one of the carpeted areas, to pray or just take in the calm ambience amid the beautifully decorative English Oak and Burmese Teak carvings. Importantly, the wood is from sustainable sources – ten saplings were planted for each tree used. In the centre, there’s the obligatory souvenir shop, which to its credit offers more than just the mass-produced plastic trinkets you’d expect to find. I bought myself a booklet about eyecare, containing a rather sweet mix of modern physiology and traditional wisdom. A logical purchase for someone who is never far from a screen!

BAPS Swaminarayan Neasden Hindu Temple Entrance Gates, London

BAPS Swaminarayan Mandir Neasden Hindu Temple Gates

In time, we were ready to make our way through the connecting corridor into the cluster of domes forming the main temple – the mandir.

Made in India, Built In London

Bochasanwasi Akshar Purushottam Sanstha (BAPS) Shri Swaminarayan Mandir, to give it its full name, is Europe’s first traditional Hindu temple, and follows the teachings of the Swaminarayan Sampradaya branch of Hinduism. Built in accordance with ancient architectural texts (the Sanskrit Vedas, Hinduism’s oldest scriptures), the temple components were constructed in India using natural materials such as Bulgarian limestone and both Indian and Italian marble, before being shipped to their permanent home in the London and assembled.

BAPS Swaminarayan Mandir Neasden Hindu Temple Marble Carvings

An incredible labour of love, the creation of the mandir and haveli required thousands of volunteers, among which were hundreds of skilled craftsmen. The intricate carvings are not just beautiful to look at – run your hand along any wooden handrail as you descend one of the staircases and your sense of touch will kick into play, following the spiralled grooves all the way along.

Honouring a Young Pilgrim

Our first stop in the Mandir is the Abhishek Mandap, a marble chamber featuring a gilded brass statue (murti) of Nilkanth Varni.

Murti: the image, statue or idol of a deity in Indian culture; the sacred embodiment of such a deity

Nilkanth Varni is a younger child-form of Bhagwan Swaminarayan, the founder of the Swaminarayan Sampradaya tradition. His 7-year, 7000-mile, barefooted pilgrimage from the age of 11 is considered the root of the tradition, and is celebrated here.

BAPS Swaminarayan Mandir Neasden Hindu Temple Marble Carvings

Abhishek is an ancient ritual where water is poured over the murti of gods to honour them and attain their blessings. I found the visitors encircling the murti in a clockwise direction, so I joined in and followed the process. Several devotees prostrated themselves on the floor in reverence, a common practice, more among the men than the women.

We followed the Abhishek with our main mission for the day – a visit to inner sanctum on the first floor.

Fruitful Wishes for a Happy Marriage

The hall is the most impressive and elaborate area of all, a feast of elaborate carvings and sculpted beauty. Its shrines feature several images of Bhagwan Swaminarayan and his spiritual successors over the years, plus representations of many revered Hindu gods. Offerings to these divinities can be either fruit, sweets or money, and I confess to having a strong preference for fruit, as it represents the bounty of the earth and the cycles of nature.

Girl Dressed as Lord Shiva Hindu God

Girl dressed as Shiva, a major male deity in the pantheon of Hindu gods. Photo by Whitney Lauren.

There are people from all walks here, but all with a common attitude of respect. It’s quiet and calming, and it doesn’t matter whether you’re here out of faith or curiosity.

Our group puts the prasad down (make their offerings) to the chosen deities, including Lord Shiva, one of the key deities of Hinduism, and Shri Ganapti – commonly also known as Ganesha. Shri Ganapti, with his easily identifiable elephant head, is the god of beginnings and the remover of obstacles, and as such often features in rituals when a wedding or other major occasion is approaching.

Hindu Shri Ganesha Ganupti Elephant Head God

Ganesha aka Ganupti, photo by Chris Brown.

Appreciating Yesterday’s Values in Today’s World

To complete our afternoon, we visited the ‘Understanding Hinduism’ exhibition, a tranquil and thought-provoking passage through the origins and principles of the Hindu faith.

Through a series of exhibits and plaques, its ancient wisdoms and a vast array of early achievements in astronomy, mathematics and other disciplines are brought to your awareness. In the ceiling, concave domes have been hollowed out, and images of the stars painted to represent this knowledge and love of the wider cosmos.

For a few moments, I sat and leaned against one of the marble and wood pillars, listening to the background music and wondering why we seem to have lost sight of the core values of this, and most major faiths.

We are birds of the same nest.

We may wear different skins, We may speak in different tongues,

We may believe in different religions, We may belong to different cultures,

Yet we share the same home – Our Earth.

Born on the same planet, covered by the same skies,

Gazing at the same stars, breathing the same air,

We must learn to happily progress together or miserably perish together.

For humans can live individually, but can only survive collectively.

(attributed to the Atharva Veda but probably a more recent interpretation of its message)

It was now time to re-shoe ourselves and make for home. Outside, a ritual was taking place. We lingered on the periphery of the crowd for a few minutes, but none of us were any the wiser. It turns out (thanks to some online research!) this was a celebration of Rath Yatra, the Hindu festival of chariots.

But I can’t say I’ve managed to get a grip on what it means!

BAPS Swaminarayan Mandir Neasden Hindu Temple London

There’s a lot to take in with Hinduism, but it has some beautiful concepts and is a fascinating collection of values and wisdom. I can fully understand why many westerners have been drawn to it over the years, and thanks to Neasden Temple, I’ve taken a little step closer to appreciating it more myself.

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BAPS Swaminarayan Mandir, Neasden, London
Neasden Temple Haveli BAPS Swaminarayan Mandir

Disclosure and Information: This was a private visit. Please note only small bags are allowed into the building and no cameras. Mobile phones are permitted but the taking of photographs is strictly prohibited. The temple is open every day from 9am until 6pm. Entry to the Haveli and Mandir is free, the Understanding Hinduism exhibition carries a charge of £2 for adults (children and seniors at £1.50).

Sara Dobak

Hi, I’m Sara, founder and writer at Travel Continuum, where I write about my global travel experiences, with a special passion for the stars and sustainability. I believe in the power of education through travel, and here I share the tales and tips that I find interesting and inspiring. I hope that you do too. continuum /kənˈtɪnjʊəm/: a sequence of elements where the extremes are very different, but each individual stage is barely distinguishable from the next. Something that keeps going, changing gradually over time…like the seasons.

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10 Responses

  1. Catherine says:

    I went to Neasden yeeears ago when I was in primary school, I still remember how incredible it is! Such an amazing place!

    • Sara Dobak says:

      Ahh, you’re only the 2nd person commenting who actually knows about it – you’re spot on, it is such a treasure!

  2. neil says:

    wow beautiful pictures and fascinating description of what you experienced. It was very nice having you with us on a special day like that. Look forward to seeing you again soon and share our wedding day with us.

    • Sara Dobak says:

      Thanks Neil, it was a brilliant day full of surprises- the temple was a revelation to me, especially the exhibition. Thanks for welcoming me into your day and occasion, and yes – see you soon for the even bigger day!! x

  3. Lucy says:

    What a beautiful building, such ornate carvings. I’ve been to a few Hindu temples around the world but it must be even more interesting to learn about the rituals and traditions that go on there.

    • Sara Dobak says:

      Yes, the detail in the carvings was mesmerising, and what I loved most was the materials were from sustainable sources.

  4. So lovely – I actually grew up in the area and passed it often but never went inside. I recommend Regent’s Park Mosque for another incredible interesting location, and who knows they may let you take more pictures.

    • Sara Dobak says:

      I’d never heard of it until my friend mentioned it for her son’s wedding blessings, but it just shows how much can bypass our notice. That includes Regent’s Park Mosque too, so thanks for the suggestion 🙂

  5. How fascinating! I’d love to visit both the temple and the exhibition, although I have to admit I’d feel very frustrated not to be able to take photographs. Perfectly understandable of course that it’s not allowed. I had no idea this temple existed!

    • Sara Dobak says:

      I felt the same about the photos – and the weather was terrible for those I WAS able to take from the outside. But it was a lovely day and I’ll write a little more about the Hinduism exhibition soon.

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